New wheels.

I haven't really kept up with my blog in a bit. I ditched the Z32 computer and went with one from a 92 Maxima V6 DOHC 5 Speed. According to the guys at Jim Wolf, that's what they have been using. My tuner Dave Blundell is currently e-promming it for me. I picked up a set of 350z wheels wrapped in Bridgestone Potenzas just for street wheels. I put a 5mm spacer in the rear so they sit flush, I'm going to be working on the fronts as well. I picked up a set of Megan Racing springs for the car, I've just been lacking motivation to put them on.

Front
Size: 17x7.5
Offset: +30mm
Tire: 225/50/17

Rear
Size: 17x8.0
Offset: +33mm
Tire: 235/50/17

Finally.

I finally got off of my ass and put the seats in.

New exhaust

I finally got my exhaust mocked up all the way and welded. I hit it with some high heat black paint for the hell of it. Here's an undershot of the car, rust free frame rails.

New coolant reservoir.

Crappy cell phone photo.

New catch can

New catch can setup from Rob at Total Performance Racing. He hooked me up with an unbeatable price on it.

What a nightmare..

Back to the grind again.

New seats.

New intake.

I got some parts in the mail today to finish the intake. I ordered a pipe with the RFL flange on it so I could just clamp my recirculation hose onto it back into the middle of the intake. I ended up just using a 90 degree coupler and popping the MAF and filter out up top. The boost controller is now installed as well, I just need to find some time to adjust it.

New MAF, BOV Recirculation

I went back to stock MAF Sensor, an E60. It's off of 95+ Maximas and S2 RB25's just for future reference for anyone else. The car runs alright on it, just somewhat rich. I also had a mega stalling issue, so I decided to recirculate my Blitz. I ended up cutting the trumpet tip off of it and sealing the 2 pieces back together with Honda Bond considering it never came with a gasket. I'm using a 1.25" flexible radiator hose to run it down to the new intake which is on order right now.

HID's

I installed HID's today out of boredom. I ended up getting a 6000k set. I made it kinda clean and tucked the ballasts behind the front bumper.

Anyways, I ended up getting really frustrated and ditching the eprommed ecu. I'm going back to stock computer and stock E60 MAF. I ordered one over a week ago, I'm just still playing the waiting game.

It seems like I got a lot accomplished today. I've been having a lot of issues with the way it's running on the base map, so Dave burned me another chip. I swapped that little sucker out, which actually took a little while because I was being super careful to not bend one of the pins. After that, I changed the spark plugs out. I fouled out the original set I had put in. I decided to step it up a heat range to a BKR6E plug and set the gap to .032". I'm hoping we get a lot of this tuning nonsense figured out soon so I don't have to put another set in. They ended up being a complete pain in the dick. I had debated running an oxygen sensor for a while, so I consulted Dave about it and he stated that it would make his part easier tuning if I ran one. Sooo, I took off the downpipe and ran that over to Jon's place to get a bung welded in. I wired it back in where it had been cut out of the main harness. Fingers crossed that it runs better when I try to start it later.

I figured I'd throw in a photo of how clean the throttle body is lol.

Youza dirty girl!

I pulled her out of the garage today for the first time in months. The base map is a bit rough and it has idle issues. Cruising around my AFR's are pretty decent, but in boost, I'm about 10.0 AFR. A tad rich for my blood.

Random washing the car photos.

Simplicity.

I'm pretty much just making this post out of boredom. It kills me how simple a Manual Boost Controller is really. For anyone who needs a legitimate one on a budget, check out www.joepmbc.com

I am completely done with the car minus the exhaust. I got my tach and cooling fans working last night, I'm just still playing the waiting game for my computer.

Info for anyone swapping to a Z32 computer.

1) Knock Sensor inputs – pin 23/24

RB25 uses twin knock sensors. Z32 uses one. As a result only one knock sensor will be active if Z32 ECU is left stock. RB25 knock sensor wires 23 (cylinder 1-3) and 24 (cylinder 4-6) are fed to single knock sensor input (pin 23) on the Z32 ECU. Benefits are that knock sensing from both knock sensors is used.



2) O2 Sensor inputs – pin 29/55

RB25 uses single O2 sensor. Z32 uses twin. Link the O2 sensor input for RB25 (pin 29) to pin 55 so both O2 sensor inputs (LHS and RHS) receive a signal. This avoids the potential condition of RHS bank being open circuit (& assigned a default value of 0.3 volts by the ECU) meaning a potentially lean condition.



3) Power Steer switch input – pin 19/34

RB25 power steering input goes to pin 19. This pin is used to drive the rad fan relay on Z32, so this signal must be moved to the Z32 power steer input pin (pin 34). This is achieved by linking across to the correct pin and then isolating the original pin by cutting a track on the board.



4) Full throttle switch input – pin 33

Z32 uses a switch to sense wide open throttle. This is not used on the RB25 – it has an ABS input on this pin, so it must be disconnected. This is achieved by removing a resistor on the reverse side of the ECU.



5) FICD output – pin 33

Z32 uses pin 33 to drive the FICD (Fast Idle Control Device – for idle up when aircon is on). This pin goes to the Exhaust Overtemp Lamp on the R33 dash, so it’s best this is disconnected. FICD is driven separately on the R33 via the Aircon system.



6) Fuel Temperature input – pin 36

Z32 uses a fuel temperature sensor. This is not used on the RB25 and the matching pin does not have a wire connected. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be raised be the Z32 ECU if it senses that the voltage on this pin is out of range. This input can be simulated by fitting a 2 kohm resistor between pin 36 and GND – which will give a reading of around 25 degrees fuel temp.



7) Injectors – pins 105, 110, 112, 114

R33’s actually seem to run fine without changing the injector pins around but theoretically they should be swapped as Z32 and R33 firing order is different.

Z32 to R33 injector wiring changes
R33 pin 105 to Z32 pin 110 (Injector)
R33 pin 110 to Z32 pin 105 (Injector)
R33 pin 112 to Z32 pin 114 (Injector)
R33 pin 114 to Z32 pin 112 (Injector)

Buy them up!

26x10.5x16 MT ET Street slicks mounted on some FD Rx7 wheels
25x4.5x15 MT drag skinny tires mounted on some Weld racing 5 spokes

FOR SALEEEEEE

Bumper fitment.

You get the idea. Hoping to find an oem front lip.

Second start up.

Well, you get the point. Everything is stated in the video.

First start up.

It's a rough quality video, but you get the point. Ignore the valvetrain noise, my camera amplified it for some reason.

Exhaust mock up.

Jon gave me his old 4" exhaust, so I cut it up a bit and I'm working on making it fit. This is where I'm at so far.. Still not bolted to the downpipe yet. Cell phone pics again unfortunately, just being lazy.

Fuel pump ready to go.

The fuel pump setup is finally done. When I originally purchased the car, it had a dual Walbro setup. I ended up converting back to single and capping the an fitting. There are wires everywhere, but it should work. I'll end up cleaning them up later.

Another random Sunday photo.

Cell phone quality, deal with it suckaz.

Intake setup.

Well, I wanted to just run the Z32 MAF and K&N Filter straight off of the turbo, but it would probably run like shit being right under the turbo manifold. So, I went with this route.. 2 1/4" to 3" coupler to a custom welded 90 degree 3" aluminum piece, popping the MAF and filter right up by the hood where it can somewhat breathe hopefully.

What's left? Just wiring really, a bit of wiring.. and of course my fuel pump setup.. I believe I'm going to change my catch can setup, this eBay one just isn't working for me.

Another bay update.

A few new things.. The intercooler is 95% done, I just ordered the last coupler I needed along with most of the stuff for my intake setup. The downpipe is on with my wideband hooked up to it now. It barely clears now, taking quite a bit of persuasion from a sledge hammer. I guess that's what you get for wanting to run 3" off of the turbo. Wait until you see my 4" custom exhaust hahahaha.

Parts Galore.

More random parts showed up in the mail today, the Godspeed Intercooler Kit and Skyline GTS-T Downpipe. The downpipe has horrible fitment, which I have been working on the past 2 hours or so now. More updates will be posted later, just made this a quick one.

Starter

My starter came in today. I ended up having to have it shipped from Alaska. In case anyone needs an RB replacement starter, order one for a 1966 Datsun 411. There is the part number posted above in the photo, but I'm not sure if it will do anyone any use now since I bought the last Napa brand one in America. I got that installed and finished up the lower harness today. Now it's just a waiting game for parts in the mail.

Bay update.

I knocked out a lot of work yesterday. I sent the driveshaft to a specialty shop and they cut it down 5/8", re-welded it and balanced it. With that in now, I filled the trans with fluid and finally got the car back on the ground. The heater core hoses were a complete pain, but I got them to work with 90 degree adapters. They don't look the best, but they're behind the block and they work. With that out of the way, I filled the radiator up. That sucker ended up holding like 2.5 gallons of antifreeze. I hooked my catch can up, which I'm not all that satisfied with the way I did it, but it should work. Monday I'm going to finish up the fuel lines, then the only things left are exhaust mock-up, wiring, an intercooler setup, and I'm still waiting for my starter to come in.

Zerolift products fail yet again..

So, like mentioned before, I had to drill some of my front mounts to make them work. It took me a little over an hour today re-fabbing up the transmission mount to get it to work. After that is all said and done, I pop my shifter up into place and bolt it down. I go to check it, and it sits like an UBER-MEGA SUPER SHORT SHIFTER. It will work fine, but fuck, it sits superrrr low and a bit far back. I go back under the car to slide my drive-shaft in, and it doesn't even fit! It's too long with these mounts! I know for a fact there is nothing wrong with the drive-shaft because it came with this car which had an RB swap in it before. Now, I have to find a shop that can take some off of it. These mounts push the engine so far back that my wiring harness gets crushed against the firewall and it hits my heater core lines. These mounts have been nothing but a headache and are NOT worth the money. I vote that anyone else do business with McKinney Motorsports for their swap needs. ZEROLIFT MOTOR MOUNTS FIT LIKE SHIT, JUST A FAIR WARNING.

Blitzzzzz

My Blitz bov showed up today from some boo-foo town in Japan. I ordered it because the factory bypass valves leak causing the RB's to idle like shit. I changed my oil with a Nissan 55Y filter (just for future reference for anyone, this is the part number in the photo) and Amsoil full synthetic 10w40 to help with oil pressure. I hooked up a few gauges, made a custom throttle cable bracket, and made a coolant overflow can. Not really a whole lot done today.